I recently took the Fjordline ferry from Stavanger to Hirtshals, Denmark. Having previously sailed on the MS Bergensfjord to Bergen (which you can read about in my earlier post), I wanted to share my experience with this route.
Routes and Schedule
Fjordline operates several routes connecting Norway (Stavanger, Bergen and Kristiansand) and Denmark (Hirthals). The ferries sail between Stavanger and Bergen during the daytime. The overnight ferry goes from Stavanger to Hirthals and from Hirthals via Kristiansand to Stavanger again.
Arrival Time and Check-in
The official guidance is that check-in closes one hour before departure. Usually, you will get away with cutting it closer (there’s often a queue extending well beyond this cutoff). To me, this hour ( or even more) of waiting always feels a bit unnecessary because the boarding is always only right before departure. But considering an alternative such as flying, you are also expected to be present at least one hour before boarding. Check-in is usually quick; sometimes, it’s necessary to show ID.
Sailing Experience and Seasickness
The Challenging Skagerrak Crossing
The Skagerrak strait, connecting the North Sea to the Baltic Sea between Norway, Sweden, and Denmark, is known for its unpredictable and sometimes challenging conditions. This 150-mile-wide strait experiences unique weather patterns due to the convergence of different water bodies:
- The shallow waters of the strait (averaging only 200 meters deep) mean waves can build quickly when winds pick up
- The meeting of North Sea and Baltic currents creates complex wave patterns
- Wind funneling effects between Norway and Denmark can intensify winds
- Seasonal low-pressure systems frequently cross this area, especially during autumn and winter months
Tip: If you’re prone to seasickness, stay as far back in the boat as possible where the wave effects are significantly reduced. The physics of ship motion means the bow (front) experiences the most dramatic up-and-down movement, while the stern (back) remains more stable. Consider purchasing a flexible ticket that allows you to change your sailing date if extremely rough seas are forecast – weather forecasts for the Skagerrak are generally reliable 48 hours in advance.
Vessel and Facilities
The MS Bergensfjord still feels relatively modern, particularly compared to competitors like DFDS. The bathrooms are noticeably newer, and the shower facilities with ample hot water are surprisingly good.
Cabin Reservations – A Frustration
One disappointment was the cabin reservation system. We were unable to book a bunk bed cabin for our return journey, so we reserved two individual cabins. However, upon boarding, we discovered both were actually 4-bed cabins fully equipped with sheets and amenities. We could have easily shared one cabin but were forced to pay for two separate ones – this felt like an unnecessary way to extract more money from passengers. One way to circumvent this is to book one cabin and an airseat, and then share the cabin.
Entertainment
The onboard entertainment was enjoyable, featuring a good two-person band. The ship also offers regular programming for children, making it suitable for family travel.
Pricing
Pricing varies greatly over time. In the high season, prices can be hundreds of euros more for an overnight trip. Cruises are often quite a bit cheaper than a ferry crossing, as people on the cruises are generally more likely to spend more on the ferry itself. We paid 4828NOK for a two-way overnight crossing between Stavanger and Hirthals with two people, a regular-sized car, and cabins.
On some ferry operators it can be significantly cheaper to book in a Scandinavian currency. But this does not seem to be the case for Fjordline.
Overall Impression
The Fjordline ferry provides a convenient connection between Norway and Denmark, with comfortable facilities and good amenities. What I like about the overnight ferries is that your holiday starts right away, and you can start fresh on your drive if you travel further into central Europe. However, the cabin booking system could be more transparent.
Leave a Reply