Four things I learned about Svalbard

This week I arrived in Svalbard. What a stunning landscape, the mountains are much higher and steeper than I imagined. Unfortunately, I didn’t have a window seat when flying in, but judging from the pictures the other passengers were taking, I highly recommend paying extra for the window seat. The plane comes in low between the mountains over Longyearbyen, offering spectacular views.

When talking to the ‘locals’ I learned some interesting facts about Svalbard.

1. Climate Change Effects are Accelerated

Svalbard is experiencing climate change at a high rate, warming four to five times faster than the global average. A notable indicator of this rapid warming was the early collapse of the “champagne glass” ice formation on June 22, 2024, much earlier than in previous years.

The view from my window, looking out on the ‘champagne glass’. The top of the glass is still covered in snow, as well as three small parts of the stem and foot.

2. You are not allowed to grow old here

Due to the permafrost preventing decomposition, burials are not allowed. Bodies that do not decay pose a health risk, so the terminally ill and the elderly are typically sent to mainland Norway for care. This policy, along with the lack of elderly care facilities, effectively means that people do not live out their final years in Svalbard.

3. Heated by Diesel

On October 19, 2023, the coal power plant in Longyearbyen was closed, and the town is now primarily heated by diesel. While investments in more sustainable energy sources are being made, they are insufficient to meet the demands of Svalbard’s cold and dark winter months.

4. High Fines for Disturbing Wildlife

Svalbard’s wildlife is protected under strict laws. A recent incident on June 23, 2024, saw two tour guides fined 20,000 NOK each for disturbing a polar bear and her cub. The guides had approached the bears too closely, causing them to abandon their meal.

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