This summer, my friend and I wanted to go camping and hiking to escape the busy city life and enjoy nature. Without a car, we wanted to go somewhere easily accessible with public transport. We found a beginner-friendly 3-day route around Russvatnet in Jotunheimen on nepaltur.no. The hike is mostly flat, so since we love mountain summits, we added a topptur (mountain summit) for some altitude. Here’s a breakdown of our trip, plus tips and possibilities for adjusting it.
Overview of each day:
Day 1:
Travel from Oslo to Gjendesheim by bus 5h.
Hike: Gjendesheim to Bessvatnet:
Distance: 4.5 km
Time: 2h 34m
Day 2:
Hike 1: Bessvatnet to Gjendesheim
Distance: 3.6 km
Time: 1h 16m
Boat from Gjendesheim to Memurubu.
Hike 2: Hike Besseggen and back to Bessvatnet
Distance: 16 km
Time: 8h 53m
Day 3:
Hike: Bessvatnet to Russvatnet
Distance: 14.7 km
Time: 8h 5m
Day 4:
Hike: Russvatnet to Memurubu
Distance: 12 km
Time: 6h 40m
Day 5:
Boat from Memurubu to Gjendesheim 20m
Return with bus from Gjendesheim to Oslo 5h.
We chose this route to balance flat walking and summits while keeping things affordable.
Let’s dive into the details of each day!
Day 1: Arrival and First Hike
Route: Oslo to Gjendesheim with bus and then hike Gjendesheim to Bessvatnet (4.5 km, 2h 34m)
We took the Valdresekspressen bus from Oslo, which took about 5 hours to get to Gjendesheim in Jotunheimen. After a quick lunch of packed sandwiches and a visit to the DNT hut, we began our small hike to Bessvatnet with all our gear.
The hike was only about 4.5 km, but it felt challenging because of our heavy backpacks. We have not walked too far with big backpacks before, so we made sure to stop a few times to rest and enjoy the views along the way and eat some snacks. We reached Bessvatnet around 6 PM and put up the tent by the lake. We warmed water on our primus and had a good dinner, before we called it a night by 10 PM.
Day 2: Hiking Besseggen
Route: Bessvatnet to Gjendesheim (3.6 km, 1 hour 16 minutes), Boat to Memurubu, Besseggen back to Bessvatnet (16 km, 8 hours 32 minutes)
We woke up at 6:00 and only brought a daypack back down to Gjendesheim, leaving our main gear by Bessvatnet.
The Besseggen hike can be done in two ways: take the boat from Gjendesheim to Memurubu and hike back, or hike to Memurubu and take the boat back. If you choose the second option, check the last boat’s departure time or plan to camp or stay at Memurubu cabin. Most prefer taking the boat in and hiking back, as climbing the Besseggen ‘ridge’ is easier going up from Memurubu than going down from the other direction. Plus, I think the stunning start by Memurubu is best enjoyed when you’re fresh and full of energy! The boat runs several times daily, but booking tickets in advance is wise to avoid it being full.
We took the 8:30 boat to Memurubu, and it took about 20 minutes. Memurubu has toilets, and it’s a good idea to use them, as finding privacy early on this popular hike can be difficult. After a quick toilet break, we started on the hike over Besseggen. Most people spend around 8 hours on this hike, including breaks.
The hike over Besseggen is one of Norway’s most popular ones, and about 60,000 tourists walk it every year!
The first section of Besseggen is steep and climbs about 400 meters quickly. The views over the green hills and surrounding peaks make it my favourite part of the whole trip! After the first section, the trail alternates between flatter stretches and small peaks. You’ll find yourself walking up a peak, then down the other side, only to climb again, like walking over a line of speed bumps, :-).
We took several breaks along the way to enjoy the view and have some snacks before we stopped for a longer lunch break just before the top. I did the same hike in 2022 and remember how windy and cold it was, taking our lunch break at the top. I feel like most people plan their big break at the summit, but honestly, in my opinion, stopping right before you start the climb offers a better view, fewer crowds, and a more relaxed vibe. So here’s a little tip: take your lunch break just before the last climb. You’ll thank me when you’re cosy, soaking in the scenery.
After lunch, the best part comes: the ridge, the actual climb! (but I’m a climber, so I might be biased). My friend? Not a fan. For those worried about heights, this hike isn’t too exposed—believe me, even though I said I am a climber haha. The first part of the hike is a typical mountain trail with wide paths and no exposure to heights. The ridge (egget) could be a bit tricky. From a distance it might look narrow, but it’s much wider than it first seems. There are two paths for most of the climb, and I went several times past people. If you are scared of height I would suggest you keep to the path that mostly goes in the middle, focus on your feet and go one step by step. If it feels too much, you can always turn back and take the boat back—it’s a beautiful trip too! If you’re unsure, I recommend trying a shorter hike like Prekestolen first to test your comfort with heights.
At the top, we had a quick bite of Kvikk Lunsj and took in the panoramic views before the wind chased us back down. The first part of the down trail goes with everyone else that is returning to Gjendesheim, but instead of walking straight we took a left, walking down to Bessvatnet. It was very quiet and less crowded than the main route. It took us about 2 hours from the top and down to our tent. We returned just before 18:00, and dinner that night felt like a true reward.
Day 3: Around Russvatnet
Route: Bessvatnet to Russvatnet (14.7 km, 8 hours 5 minutes)
We had a slow morning, leaving Bessvatnet around 10 AM. The trail took us towards Russvatnet, starting with rocky paths before entering a lush green valley. The landscape is predominantly green, and you’ll likely see more sheep than people this day. After a few hours, we reached the beautiful Russvatnet. Though we wanted to swim, we had more miles ahead, so we didn’t allow ourselves to stop for too long here. If you have an extra day, I highly recommend staying nearby; there’s a private cabin right here, but you can just walk a bit further and camp there.
The long walk along the lake was beautiful but repetitive, and with our heavy packs, it was hard to enjoy the view while having to look down to focus on balance. Almira handled the terrain better and kept us motivated. I found the long trek with a heavy bag surprisingly tough. I missed the mental focus of mountain summits, where you’re too busy figuring out your next move to dwell on tiredness. Almira kept us motivated with the marching, and I got excited every time we had to jump over a lake or walk over a bridge. If you’re not used to long, flat hikes with a heavy load, I’d recommend splitting this stretch into two days. There are plenty of great camping spots by Russvatnet.
We set up camp halfway around the lake, enjoying a quiet evening under the stars. The lack of crowds contrasted with the previous day—we only saw one family and two other hikers. The peace, views, and sense of accomplishment made the day feel so rewarding, even if it was physically challenging.
Day 4: The Final Stretch
Route: Russvatnet to Memurubu (12 km, 6 hours 40 minutes)
Our final day was a mix of exhaustion and pride— amazed at how our bodies kept going despite the tiredness. It was that rewarding kind of tiredness, the one that comes with a sense of achievement. We walked along the last stretch of Russvatnet, really feeling the fatigue settle in. This day was trickier—not just because we’d been hiking for three days already, but also due to tougher terrain. We had to cross a river on a narrow bridge that looked like a latter and only held by some rocks.The last part of the walk around Russvatnet was also pretty muddy, so make sure you’ve got waterproof, sturdy hiking shoes.
After we reached the end of Russvatnet, we rounded the mountain. Before this, the mountain had shielded us from the wind, but once we went around it, we were hit by the wind. We took a quick break under a stone for shelter and some energy food. From there, the trail took us up and over the mountain, bringing us back to the same spot we had been on day two—the start of Besseggen. We then descended the same incline we had climbed earlier. We were quite exhausted and our knees were aching, so we ended up taking breaks almost every 10 minutes, but luckily the weather was just perfect, so we kind of just sat there admiring it. It was a bit awkward when a lady with grey hair jogged past us while we were resting, saying, “You’re almost there, girls!”
Reaching Memurubu felt like a huge victory. We treated ourselves to a well-earned beer at the hut and reflected on the journey. Staying indoors that night was also nice, since it had started raining.
What to pack:
Day backpack:
- Clothes:
I bring a warm sweater to put on during breaks and an extra pair of wool socks in case I get wet. - Food and water:
I usually carry less than 1 litre, but it really depends on your needs and refill options. If you have a water filter that can clean the water, you can use snow or take it from water along the way.
For food, I wanted something easy and brought 6 slices of bread and a tube of Kaviar. Also brought some nuts and dark chocolate. - First aid kit
A small pack with bandages, antiseptic wipes and plasters. Don’t forget also to bring blister pads. - Toilet paper and hand sanitiser
I bring small tissues like Kleenex because it simple and easy to pack and a small bottle of hand sanitizer for clean hands. - Powerbank
To charge your phone along the way. For some reason, my phone always runs out quicker on top of the mountain, even tho I use it less. - Sunglasses
Or a cap - Trekking poles
Very helpful for balance and lightweight to carry when you don’t use them.
Whole trip:
Leave a comment if you would like to know everything I brought with me.
Cost Breakdown
- 1039 NOK for the bus to Gjendesheim and back to Oslo (student price)
- 600 NOK for 6 dinners (we ate real turmat every day because it was easy and have various of different options)
- 240 NOK x 2 for the boat to Memurubu and back
- 100 NOK for coffee and using the facilities at the Gjendesheim hut
- 400 NOK for one night at the Memurubu hut (Note: this is a private hut, not a DNT hut)
- 150 NOK for waffles and hot dogs at the café while waiting for the bus
Total for 5 days: 3129 NOK
The trip all in all
First of all, I think 3000 NOK for a 5-day trip in Norway is pretty reasonable! It’s a solid deal for a vacation that includes transport, accommodation, and food.
That said, was the trip worth it?
Well, if you’re not used to walking with a heavy backpack, the trip might feel a bit intense, especially with so many days of hiking. If you’re looking to make it easier, you could skip the Besseggen day and just do the hike around the water or add an extra day to break up the kilometres you walk per day. Regardless, it was an amazing trip, with amazing views and it definitely an area where it’s possible to adjust the hike and different days plan after experience and wishes for the vacation.
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